![]() ![]() ![]() Though it’s a 45-minute drive from Centro, in the village of Zimatlán, there’s no better way to get acquainted with Oaxacan cuisine than with the grande dame herself. ![]() This all-purpose space is where Juana Amaya Hernández lives, cooks, teaches and serves her restaurant guests. As for the extensive mezcal menu? Consume slowly, advises Castellanos – the first sip opens the palate, the second is “less aggressive” and the third “will be like music”. The Top Chef Mexico winner opened Origen with his wife in 2010 and can sometimes be found mingling with his guests in the dining room. A light spaghetti squash salad with cherry tomato and goat’s cheese or a dramatic grilled octopus in a crimson puddle of bean broth, chicharrón (fried pork skins) and pickled vegetables serve as welcome counterbalances to the region’s often hearty traditional fare. His Oaxacan heritage and French training both appear in a menu that reflects the full spectrum of his culinary influences. It has to be in the right hands.” Castellanos is more than capable, having later fine-tuned that early education at establishments as far-flung as Monaco and San Francisco. “It’s like kryptonite: it can make you the most powerful person in the world or it can destroy you. Raised not far from his multi-floor establishment, in the kitchen of his mother’s eatery, Castellanos is well versed in the delicate nature of Oaxacan cuisine. “Everyone wants a Oaxacan restaurant,” marvels chef Rodolfo Castellanos at his hometown’s new-found trendiness. ![]()
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